1996 Eau de Parfum By Byredo

I have tried a few Byredo perfumes, and while they are intelligent compositions, their performance-price ratio tends to be abysmal. 1996 is the exception. A powerful violet-leather-amber concoction, there are shades of Proust's madeleine about it. While it is not 90s in style (radiant minimal freshies like CK One or L'Eau d'Issey spring to mind for me), it reminds me of aspects of my childhood - some of which, for me, was aptly set in the 1990s. I couldn't put my finger on it until I scanned the reviews below, but it smells like an amalgamation of the following: licking a stamp/envelope; Refreshers (tangy, flat rectangular sweets available in Ireland/UK; the medicinal scent of acupuncturist's office complete with musty, polished wooden furniture (thank you for pinpointing this one, @solarpunk!). Regarding the breakdown of the scent itself, it is a leathery violet-iris scent that is at times fruity, powdery, patchouli-heavy, woody, ambery - making for a compelling, darkly dense concoction that somehow achieves cohesion.

1996 opens with Parma violets, sweet and powdery, given a lift by radiantly fresh juniper and perhaps some aldehydes. There is a fruitiness to it here, reminding me of the Refreshers. I also get the abstract envelope glue effect at the early stages.

As it develops, I get a vermouth-like artemisia note, medicinal and herbal. It marries nicely with the violet, powdery and velvet-like. A suede-like leather note develops in the background, reminding me a little of Piguet Jolie Madame. Buttery smooth and dense, there is a slight smokiness in the background, and a curious waxiness too. Patchouli emerges as it develops further, balsamic and dark in this instance. I get some soft woody notes in there too. The amber drydown is balsamic, given a slight sweetness thanks to the addition of a dry vanilla note. It ties everything together nicely, fading to a mossy, leathery skin scent with some sweetness. Sillage is strong and longevity is long-lasting.

A complex, brilliant piece of olfactory art, 1996 is a thing of beauty in my opinion. Avant-garde, evocative and artistic, it also manages to be wearable. A unisex autumn/winter scent, 1996 is best applied sparingly. Intriguing and compelling - I loved this.

Let me kick off this review by saying that this is one of the best leather fragrances I have ever smelled. I visited MECCA COSMETICA with the intention to look (smell) not buy but the helpful sales assistant showed me this new release by BYREDO called "1996 Inez & Vinoodh". After letting her spray my arm and convince me to "give it a try" I left the store empty-handed as intended but moments later my nose was glued to my wrist. I started getting compliments from all angles and even while browsing through a menswear store I heard a voice say "Alright, who's the one with the perfume?", about 5m away a shop assistant had stopped in her tracks and was demanding to know where the amazing scent was coming from (this one is a silage monster!).
Now; how to describe it... It's like when you open the door of a luxury leathergoods store. The cool air hits you in the face (juniper, iris and violet) and you step inside getting your first whiff of the expensive leather handbags and shoes (the leather note comes on board with patchouli and amber parading close by). It is blended to perfection and each component plays off each other nicely, the first to leave the party is probably the violet but it doesn't go completely, it seems to lurk in the background for a little while longer. The juniper settles and the amber, leather and iris take centre stage giving way to a delicious creamy scent that is quite gourmand (I could almost swear there is vanilla in there somewhere). It sits nicely; radiating a couple of metres out for hours constantly bringing compliments.
After a short period of three and a half hours I was on my way back to the store to get myself a full bottle, my little treat for Christmas! This is a must for all leather connoisseurs and those who are fond of a plush powdery iris. I definitely recommend this one - I am besotted!

Update (04/02/2014): Why oh why does this not come in a 100ml or even 150ml? I have already run out but have ordered my second bottle. I went back to the store where I first purchased the fragrance and they were totally out! If there was ever a fragrance that could be predicted as a sure sell-out it's this one!
PS: At last I have found my signature!

Oh my word, this is just divine! I was at a wedding 2 weeks ago and could smell something delectable in the air. Let me tell you, I hunted that person DOWN!! The hunt was made all the more difficult because it is so unisex. So I was lurking around men and women, smiling politely as I mooched about. I soon found HER! The amber is stunning in this. A woody, leathery Amber, with dirty patchouli. When I take a deep inhale I am transported back to the late 80s, I just can't put my finger on what it reminds me of, but it is on the tip of my tongue. AAAHH what is it!!? Anyway, this leans a little masculine, but its definitely unisex. It's heavy, so you only need about one good spritz. But it leaves such a beautiful sweet ambery trail. I absolutely love it!!

This captures all of the scents of my life in the mid 90s. I had amber incense burning all the time, which I bought from an Indian family who made it to support themselves. I wore amber oil, because I couldn't afford any "real" perfume. I was working two jobs and going to school part time, but sill managed to go out to the underground clubs every weekend. I was dirt poor, but single, free, and so happy! This fragrance has the booze and books and amber

1996 Inez & Vinoodh by Byredo smells of the finest vintage leather handbags lightly dusted in iris powder, an earthy patchouli sweetened up with the most syrupy-sweet amber, and a tart zingy twist of juniper berries. This fragrance is like a memory. It’s a cloudy grey day in November as you walk through a beautiful pine tree forest with the wind whispering across your skin in a chilly breeze. You wrap your sweater tighter around your body as you inhale the crisp air and look up at the grey sky. You catch the subtle smell of the tree bark and the sweet resins while you walk along listening to the twigs snap beneath your leather boots. It is the best time of year just as the weather turns cold. Every morning holds the promising warmth of the sun and every night the dark icy depths of what lurks beyond your cozy little cabin. I’ve never been so excited to be so scared. Love this fragrance!